Conquering the Cabot Trail

We just spent the last few days winding our way around the famous Cabot Trail through Cape Breton National Park. This is some of tghe most spectacular scenery in North America if not the world. The highway snakes around cliffs and mountains providing awesome vistas of valleys, rivers, forests, and the Atlantic in the distance. It took us the better part of a day to make the trek, ending up last night in Port Hood, a beautiful beach side camp ground on the western shore.

One of the highlights of the trip was a visit to a small fishing village on the North Western coast of Cape Breton- Neils Harbor (see photos) Here we found a small lighthouse, tiny harbor with a few lobster boats, and a wonderful little restaurant perched on rocky point called the Chowder House. Dad had the fish chowder which was brimming with lobster, clams, haddock, and scallops...to die for. Mom had the chowder too and said it was unbelievable.

Yesterday Mom and Dad played a round of golf with the Kings in Ingonish at the world famous Highlands Links course rated as one of the top golf courses in the world. Dad said that this was the most beautiful course he's ever played, with breathtaking views of the mountains on one side, and the Atlantic ocean on the other. A Pete Dye designed course, the fairways undulated with steep hills, and blind shots to the greens. The Bells and Kings had a blast, celebrating their last night together with a dinner near the camp site.The Kings are off to visit Linda's daughter and family way up in the Gasbay peninsula near the St Lawrence Seaway. We had a wonderful time with the Kings, and I really enjoyed frollicking with Enzo and Becky. I have to admit a bit of homesickness for Oak Island and all my buddies
back home.

Today Mom and Dad toured the Glenora Distillery near our camp site in Port Hood. This is the only single malt whisky distillery in Nova Scotia...their signature whisky, the Cape Breton, was delicious but potent, so says Dad.

Tomorrow we're off to Pictou on the northern coast just before we leave for Prince Edward Island on Monday

The Louisberg Fort and The Alexander Graham Bell Museum

We camped right next to the famous historical restoration of the Louisberg Fortress on the Northeastern Coast of Cape Breton Island. I basically spent the day asleep, but Mom and Dad toured the fort. Dad's report:

Louisberg was initially built in 1713 by the French as one of their first North American outposts. The city was entirely surrounded by ramparts defended with cannons. Unfortunately the British over-ran the fortress in 1746, and subsequently deeded back to the French in 1756 in exchange for other lands in Nova Scotia. The Brits main fortress was in Halifax. The French finally subcombed to a lack of trade and the colony folded in 1765. In the 1960s the Canadian government undertook a massive reconstruction of Lewisburg as a way to give employment to the local miners who suffered from a shut down of the mines. The fortress includes all kinds of buildings, ramparts, governor's mansion, and vaious french style homes for the local constabulary. A separate large building housed the fort's garrison. At its peak, Louisberg had a population of 7000. The complex is staffed with several dozen citizens dressed up in period costumes (see photos) we had a great guided tour (Louisa Johnson- she's the buxom lady in the photo)) who animated the tour with great stories of life in the 18th century Louisberg. For example we learned that the troops slept three to a bunk, bathed only once a year and suffered freezing temperatures in the winter and stifling heat in the summer. The stench was so bad that the local indians refused to come into the fort because of the smell. We watched several military exersizes including the firing of the cannons from the ramparts. All very interesting and entertaining.

Today the Bells and Kings toured the Alexander Graham Bell museum in Baddeck (pronounced Ba- DECK') As a distant relative I learned much about Dr. Bell I didn't know. For example did you know that Bell invented a version of the airplane that lagged the famous Wright Brothers flight by 6 days? He invented a hydrofoil boat that could reach speeds of 70 miles an hour. He invented the first prototype of the iron lung. He also invented a better version of the phonograph that outperformed the Edison version. Descendants of the Bells still live in his mansion overlooking the lake near Baddeck. Quite an amazing inventor /scientest! His wife, Mable was also an extraordinary woman who managed the Bell estate and fortune.

We're off to the Cabot Trail around the northern tip of Cape Breton island tomorrow!

Adrenelin Rush in the Tidal Bore

After Lunenberg and the "ovens," we traveled up the Acadia coast (eastern coast of Nova Scotia) to the lovely village of Digby. Here the Bells and Kings biked down an abondoned railroad track into town for dinner and a rock concert on the village green. Unfortunately the concert was quickly scuttled by a rain storm. The next day the Kings and Bells played golf at a beautful mountainous course which is part of the Digby Pines Resort. The next day we traveled on, passing through Anapolis Royal. What a beutiful village that was bustling with a farmers market, and regaled the villagers with a band concert. From Anapolis Royal we finally arrived in Brookfield near Maitland at the very eastern end of the Bay of Fundy. Along the way Mom and Dad stopped into a winery, the Muir Winery. We bought a white and a red. That night the Bells and Kings feasted on lobster and then the next day (today) we all motored over to the River Rafting adventure near Maitland.

I'll let Dad describe the tidal bore adventure:

"So we rose early to arrive at the rafting place by 8:00 AM. The tidal bore is a series of enormous rapids that result from the rushing inflow of the Bay of Fundy tide. We motor out in 16 foot Zodiacs powered by a 60 HP Mercury outboard. There were 8 rafts with six people to a raft. The Kings and Bells shared a raft with two intrepid ladies from Indiana- Linda and Anna Gale. Our raftsman was named Kurt, who was an aspiring culinary student and chef in his off months. We traveled about 6 miles up the Shubernacadie River, that runs south from the end of the Bay of Fundy. Because the river acts like a funnel the tide rips into the river like a freight train rising more than 25 feet in a matter of minutes. This produced huge rapids with waves that exceeded 12 feet at times. The raftsman steered up the river with the tide into the teeth of these huge waves. The sensation is one of a sardine in a Cuisinart. We gripped the lines along the gunwale and leaned in with terror as the tiny raft lunged up and down in the maelstrom. We entered what Kurt called the Deadly K and the Eagles Nest. These were two rapids that produced the highest and most ferocious waves. After the third terrifying run through these rapids, we agreed that enough was enough. Needless to say we were soaked, even though we wore foul weather gear and boots. Arriving back at base camp we all showered and enjoyed a cup of hot chocalate. What an adventure! Here's their web site for shots of the adventure: http://www.tidalborerafting.com

Tommorrow we're off to Louisburgh on the Southeastern coast.

Livin It Up in Ludenberg

We spent several days near Ludenberg on the Southern Coast. Ludenberg is a classic old shipping town, and designated as only one of two World Heritage sites in North America by UNESCO. The town is laid out in a classic English village configuration with neat rows of avenues and streets defining the neighborhood. The Bells and Kings toured the maritime museum which highlighted the famous fishing schooner Bluenose II. The original Bluenose won virtually all of its races against the US fishing schooner from Glouster. It was eventually sold to the East Indian trading Company and was scuttled on a reef in the Bahamas. Bluenose II is an exact replica and now is in dry dock for a two year restoration.
We stayed at a camp ground known as “the ovens.” The ovens are a series of caves along the rugged coast. Back in the 1890s, gold was discovered here, and a small town erupted over night. About 120,000 pounds of gold was extracted until the claims went dry. We bumped into a family panning for gold, and they showed us their findings, tiny specks of gold! We had a great camp site overlooking the ocean. The next day we toured Blue Rock, a tiny fishing village some ten kilos from Ludenberg. What a gem! Small, multicolored, houses encircle the tiny harbor featuring classic trawlers and sailboats at their moorings.

Earlier we stopped at Peggy’s cove which features the most famous lighthouse in Nova Scotia. Out in front of the lighthouse was a young lassie in a kilt playing a bag pipe.

On the way to Digby we stopped to check out the largest wooden church in North America. Built in the early 1800s, the church is huge rising to 60 feet inside. (see pic)

We’re now in a camp ground close to the town of Digby located at the mouth of the Bay of Fundy. The Kings and Bells biked in for dinner and then attended a rock concert in the village green. After about an hour, it began to pour, so the Bells scurried back to the camp. The kings hung in there and danced away for another hour in the rain.

The food has been spectacular. Last nigh the Bells feasted on Haddock and Salmon. The Kings enjoyed the famous scallops of Digby. We've also been pigging out on Mussels and Lobster

Today the Bells and Kings play a round of golf. Tomorrow, we’re off to Maitland at the end of the Bay of Fundy. The Kings and Bells plan a rubber raft ride in the Bay of Fundy riding the famous flood tide back into the bay. They say the ride endures fourteen foot waves. I say “good luck.”

Halifax is Hopping

We spent two days near Halifax and toured all the sites. On Sunday we checked out the famous Citidel on top of a hill overlooking Halifax Harbor. This is huge eight sided fortress that has been rebuilt four times since the late 1600s. The walls are so formidable and the moats and gun placements so daunting that the fort never succombed to an attack. Mom and dad watched troops in fine highlander uniforms do close order drill and rifle firings (very loud!) Next, Mom and Dad along with Dick and Linda King checked out the board walk along Halifax harbor. There were several Canadian ships moored along the quay that were interesting.

Yesterday, Mom and Dad toured the cemetary where several hundred victims of the Titanic were buried. Halifax was the entry point for Titanic victims, many of which were unidentified, and buried in an unmarked grave. The survivors were taken directly to New York on the steam liner Capathia. All very sad.

Mom and Dad also toured the maritime museum which told the horrific story of the great explsion of the late 1800s. A British frigate loaded with explosives was rammed by another ship. It then caught on fire. The fire raged for hours which attracted a crowd along the quay. Suddenly a huge explosion ripped across the harbor. Over two thousand were killed and thousands more were injured. It was the largest single explosion in the world up to that point, only exceeded by the nuclear detonations in Japan. A 1000 pound anchor was found three miles away. It took years for Halifax to recover. Another interesting fact about Nova Scotia are the ship wrecks. It is estimated that between 10,000 and 25,000 ship wrecks have occured along the coast. The most recent was a provate yacht that crashed into Sable island in 2003.

Mom and Dad also toured the public botanical gardens modeled after the Victorian gardens in London. Mom and Linda were particularly impressed with the enormous pair of geese, which must have been thirty pounds in weight!

Today, we all depart for our next port of call...Ludenberg with several stops along the way. Can't wait!

We've arrived in Nova Scotia

We've had a great trip up from Camden. On Wednesday we visited the Gardners (Trish and Lou) in Belfast. The Gardners are Dataw neighbors, but like so many Datawinians, they move north for the summer. The Gardners have been restoring a turn of the century sea captain's house overlooking the harbor. Trish is having a new studio built out which will provide commanding views of the town and harbor. After cocktails Mom, Dad, the Kings and Gardners dined at the local Lobster Pound. Dad said the lobsters were to die for! On Friday we drove up to a camp site outside of Bar Harbor. The highlight of the day for Mom and Dad was a two hour tour on Captain John's lobster boat-"Lulu." Captain John is an expert on all things lobster and we learned about lobster anatomy (did you know that a lobster has three pairs of claws), lobster fishing, and lobster moulting. Captain John hauled up some lobsters from his traps to demonstrate various aspects of the yummy crustacean. The world record lobster...40 pounds, probably 120 years old! Who knew?

On Friday, the Kings and Bells toured Acadia national forest, including a view from the top of Cadillac Mountain; the highest spot on the east coast at 1530 feet. Last night Dad cooked up some barbecue chicken and then today we took off for Nova Scotia. We arrived about 2:00 PM this PM.It was actually 3:00 PM since we lose an hour this far east.

The weather has been absolutely spectacular. Imagine 55 degrees at night; and today the temp hovered in the mid sixties. Tonight it's going to drop back into the fifties, so we all plan to suit up in our woolies.

Tomorrow, it's off to Halifax (two nights)

Lots to Report

We've had a fantastic five days in New England. We're now in Camden, Maine after a great weekend with friends in Hummarock, Mass south of Boston. First, let me report that the temperature has been in the 60s at night and the 70s during the day here in Maine. What a relief.

Our stay with the Doyles in Hummarock was highlighted by great runs on the beach. Mom and Dad partied like crazy Friday and Saturday night with the Corrys, Doyles, and Kammermans, all old friends from our Norwalk days. Sunday night Mom and Dad feasted at the Bridgewaye Inn near the Doyles, Dad said the lobster was "spectacular."

On Monday we left for Portland, Maine and had a nice lunch with Dad's niece, Maggie Jackson, their kids Alexander and Acy, and hubby, Chris.

Next stop was Freeport, Maine, where we shopped at the flagship retail complex of L.L. Bean. This place is amazing...five different mega-stores featuring the full line of Bean sportswear, camping gear, canoe and other water gear. Mom bought me a snazzy new Bean dog collar, with the black lab profile, I believe the artist's name is Steve Hunek; he does all the dog graphics. We "boondocked" in the Bean parking lot that night after a great Italian dinner. Boondocking is where you're on your own, with no power or water hook-up. I stayed home with Becky and Enzo, the Kings' two dogs. Oh yes, we're now hooked up with Linda and Dick King (Dataw buddies) on our trek to Nova Scotia.

Our next stop during the day on Tuesday was Rockland, Maine, where Mom and Dad toured the Andrew Wyeth collection. All three Wyeths are featured at the museum...what a treat! Mom and Dad had lunch at a local cafe famous for their lobster club sandwich which beat Bobby Flay's version in a "throwdown." Delecious!

Then we joined the Kings outside of Camden, Maine at a state park camp ground. Then things got crazy. We first went over to Jim and Cathy Kinsella's beautiful home in Camden, where we parked the dogs. Jim and Cathy have a home on Dataw. Mom and Dad boarded their boat for a great tour around the local Camden waters. We then returned for drinks with the Hascombs (Steven and Loi), also part time Dataw residents. The Hascomb home is right on Penobscot Bay with spectacular views. Meanwhile, I had escaped the Kinsella home; desparately needing a potty break. I opened one door by pushing up on the handle, and then opened a screen door. Mom and Dad found me out in the drive way. The other dogs didn't make it out. Needless to say, Mom and Dad were relieved that I stuck around. Where's the trust? Then Mom and Dad joined the Kinsellas for dinner at a cafe overlooking Camden harbor...they say it was fantastic!

So now it's Wednesday mroning and we leave for Belfast later this morning! I just finished a long hike with Becky and Enzo; and I'm bushed...on to Belfast!